IT'S PERFECT THRU HELL GATE

JULY 6, 2016

LEAVING CAPE MAY

We left Cape May on Saturday July 2, about 9am.  It is time for us to move north before we run out of time.  As we pulled up the anchor we saw we were not going to be the only ones using the Cape May Inlet out into the Atlantic.  We were soon part of a mass of boats leaving the bay.  Just as we turned into the inlet we were joined by a whole flock of fishing vessels.  Some small but most quite large.  One thing we have learned coming north is there are very few power boaters with any manners when it comes to passing another boat.  When a large power boat passes a sailboat at high speed he puts out a wake that can knock a sailboat on its side.  If there is room and time we turn into these wakes to minimize the damage.    It was a brutal but short passage out as boat after boat powered past us as we fought to keep It's Perfect out of harms way.  Finally we were out in the Atlantic and everything improved.

PASSING ATLANTIC CITY

The day was beautiful, our destination New York.  We had light winds all day and saw few other boats.  Dolphin were also in short supply, we only came across one large pod that was so busy with their dinner they had no time to play. As it grew dark we could see Atlantic City in the distance and watched their fireworks going off for miles.  We stayed about 6 miles offshore most of the night.  Keeping watches on the first night is hard, neither one of us has had time to get into the rhythm of an overnight passage.  Rod sleeps little and catches a short nap here and there.

SUNSET ON THE ATLANTIC

As the sun rose we were coming into the shipping lanes of New York Harbor, we were still more than 3 miles off shore.  The huge bulk carriers and container ships were lining up.   The East River is notorious for wild currents and rough water and we are 2 hours early for being at slack tide when we reach Hell Gate.  With all the ships around we decided to turn and motor back the way we came for 1 hour and then turn around and fall in line to enter the harbor along with all the commercial ships.  This sounds easy enough so I send Rod down for a nap and take us out for an hour and then turn back on course and head for the shipping lanes.   

VERRAZANO BRIDGE

Just as we hit the shipping lanes Rod returned to the helm.  We let 2 of the closest ships go ahead of us and fell in line.  We were soon under the Verrazano Bridge and could see Manhattan in the distance.  We turned out of the shipping lanes heading for the Statue of Liberty. 

The bay is a very busy place to be. The large number of watercraft is daunting.  There were ferry boats, fishing boats, tour boats, ski boats, swarms of kayakers led by small power boats, police boats patrolling and Coast Guard with a machine guns on deck.  There was even some event going on with swimmers crossing the bay.  It was crazy that all this could be happening at the same time.  As we neared the Statue of Liberty you could see all the tourists lined up around the base waiting their turn to have a look inside.  It was here we turned into the East River.

STATUE OF LIBERTY FROM THE DECK OF IT'S PERFECT

The warnings about Transiting the East River doesn't prepare you.  As we are looking up at sky scrapers a seaplane glides out of a very small cut in the buildings.  It then turns and proceeds to come up the river toward us and takes off over our heads.  The river channel through the city is wide enough but maneuvering with all the other boats in heavy current is tedious and exhausting.

BROOKLYN BRIDGE

While fighting the current in the river and watching traffic both large and small, we are passed by large power boats that don't seem to know there is another boat on the water.  We are hit time and again by huge wakes that knock us around.  When possible we turn into the wake, but with the amount of traffic and width of the river that is not always possible.

The East River runs through the city for about 6 miles before it makes a sharp turns into
Hell Gate which takes you into Long Island Sound.   Rod's timing couldn't be better.  When we arrive there is little current.  Before we make our turn we are once again knocked around by a large power boat speeding past and as we finished our turn our engine overheated.  We shut off the engine and quickly rolled out the jib so we could steer.   This turn in the river leaves very little room to maneuver.  OMG, coming toward us under the bridge is a tug pulling a large barge.  After hailing the pilot on the radio to let him know our problem, we steered to one side to allow the barge to pass without incident.  While I stayed at the helm steering to keep us off the rocks, Rod headed for the engine room.  The doors came off and it was soon evident that we had lost the prime on the seawater pump.  This has happened before when dealing with the huge wakes of power boats.  It didn't take Rod long before he was in the companionway telling me to start the engine.  The engine started and the temperature began to drop.  Rod took the helm and we then motored out of Hell Gate and into Long Island Sound.

STEPPING STONES LIGHTHOUSE, LONG ISLAND SOUND

We were less than 10 miles from Manhasset Bay making 7 1/2 knots going with the current. After our brush with disaster we took a couple of deep breaths.  I went below and made us two excellent margarita's. We then sat back to enjoy what was left of our passage.  The sound is wide, fringed by tree lined shores and filled with sailboats enjoying the water.  This turned out to be a very good day.

HISTORIC CAPE MAY, NEW JERSEY

JUNE 30, 2016

VIEW FROM IT'S PERFECT

We left our anchorage on the Delaware River Sunday morning heading for  Cape May.  About 6 hours later we turned into the long, skinny, shallow Cape May Canal.  It was quite a feat to stay in deep enough water and maneuver It's Perfect with the many large and small boats coming in and going out around us.  Once we entered the bay we took a look at the 2 designated anchorages.  The anchorage off the US Coastguard Station has the deepest water and enough room to swing when the tide changes.  The only downside its just off the channel so we get all the wakes from passing ferries, shrimpers, fishing boats and pleasure boats. The water around the anchorage is a no wake zone, I am not sure all these captains can read.

ANCHORAGE OFF THE COAST GUARD STATION

By 2pm we were anchored in about 15ft of water with 4 other transient sailboats.  We try to anchor as far from the other boats as possible which means we will not disturb the other boaters with our generator.  It seems most people that anchor feel the need to have close company and we were soon joined by a Catamaran.

The temperature here is in the mid 70's during the day and the low 60's at night.  Not bad for late June.  We are a short ride to shore and the historic town of Cape May, New Jersey, the oldest seaside resort in the country.

FRESH SHRIMP ANYONE?

We spent the afternoon on the internet and phone trying to see what was available for the transient boats at anchor.  The marinas are at least 95pct work boats and large power boats.  There is hardly a mast in sight.  We quickly learn the marinas tolerate anchored boats and allow you to dock your dinghy when you buy fuel but do not allow use of any of the facilities even for a fee.  Not what we would call a cruiser friendly port.  In most anchorages with a town close by the marinas allow use of the laundry, showers and dinghy dock for a small daily fee. 

JOSEPH WHILLDIN-MILLER HOUSE

THE OLDEST HOUSE IN CAPE MAY, 1711-1718

It was time for a work day on the boat.  One of our heads is not working.  Yuck one of Rod's least favorite repair jobs.  It was soon determined we needed a new macerator pump assembly.  There is a West Marine in town but they would have to order one.  While calling marinas searching for a place to dock the dinghy Rod found one that had it's own parts dept. and their price was about $75 less than West Marine.  The next morning Rod was the proud new owner of a new pump assembly. 

While on shore picking up the part we took the opportunity to take a look around town.  It is about a 2 mile walk to the beach through the Historic District of Cape May.  The journey was packed with historic homes and traffic.  We walked for more than an hour just seeing the sights and getting our bearings.  We stopped at what advertised to be an authentic Mexican restaurant for lunch.  We are rarely impressed with Mexican food anywhere but in Texas or New Mexico.   We were pleasantly surprised 5de Mayo had excellent food and great guacamole.  Score 1 for Cape May. Then it was back to the boat to repair the head.

On our third day about 10pm, we had just settled in for the night.   Before we had turned off the lights we both heard people talking in what sounded like French and they sounded very close.  We were soon up the companionway to find a very large sail boat dropping their anchor less than 20ft off our port side.  Rod's was quickly out on deck getting the attention of the man on the bow.  "You are too close!!!!!"  The man seemed a little surprised but soon the anchor chain was coming up.  They then backed off and dropped it at our stern, still a lot closer than we wanted.  Before long they were floating happily right in the shipping lane, behind us.  Hopefully all the shrimp boats that come and go at night are paying attention.  Their anchor light finally came on and we went down for what was left of the night.  About 3am Rod was back on deck to check our swing during the changing tides and found a Coast Guard boat quietly circling the French boat.  By the time we came up the next morning there was no sign of the boat that caused all the commotion the night before.

CAPE MAY BEACH

OUR LADY STAR OF THE SEA CATHOLIC SCHOOL

After breakfast we were soon off to shore and our walk to what is called one of the most pristine beach's on the east coast.  The shore line is covered with resorts, restaurants, tourists shops, people and traffic.  The Cape May Beach is packed with colorful umbrellas, cabana's and people.  We walked thru one of the small boardwalks to find a small booth and 2 people waiting to take our money for the privilege of walking the beach with a throng of people.  It seams to access this beach the fee is $6 a day per person.  The sand is beautiful, the sky clear blue and the umbrellas colorful.  With all the people to navigate through just to get to the water it didn't look like so much fun.  We decided to save our money.

MOM TAKING JUNIOR FOR A RIDE

We soon stopped by Ben & Jerry's for ice cream and used our beach fee money, mmmmm... delicious.  After a short stop at the grocery we were soon on our way back to the boat.  We have been watching the weather and it looks good for a Saturday departure.  We have decided to go outside to New York Harbor and turn into the East River through Hell Gate and into Long Island Sound.  We plan a short stay in New York City on our way south.  Long Island Sound has many small towns and anchorage's and we are looking forward to winding our way further north.  

LEAVING ANNAPOLIS

JUNE 25, 2016

LIFE IS GOOD IN THE CHESAPEAKE

 HOT COFFEE AND FULL ENCLOSURE

TEMPERATURE IN THE LOW 60'S

THE SASSFRAS RIVER

We left the mooring field in Annapolis, Maryland about 6:30am headed for the C&D Canal.  It was a foggy, overcast morning, the water was flat and there was a slight breeze as we motored out of Spa Creek back into the Chesapeake Bay heading north.

 

WATCHING THE STORM

As the day progressed the clouds built and storms were all around us.  By afternoon a large storm was brewing south of us and the waves were building in the Chesapeake.  We soon decided we would have a short day and turned into the Sassafras River to find a protected spot to anchor for the night.  Just as we dropped the anchor in 15ft of water the winds picked up and the thunder boomed.  The rain began to fall and tornado warnings were announced on the radio.  The storm looked much worse than it turned out to be, it slid by us to the south.  We were soon settled in for the night, tomorrow will be a long day.

THE C&D CANAL

By 10:30 the next morning we were entering the C&D Canal.  This waterway is 14 miles long, connecting the Chesapeake Bay to the Delaware River.  Everything from large container ships to small pleasure craft use this canal.  As It's Perfect entered the canal our timing was perfect.  The current was moving our way and our speed quickly went from 5 1/2 knots to over 7.  Then we sat back and enjoyed the ride right into the Delaware River.

CHERNOBYL ????  ON THE DELAWARE RIVER

As we turned into the river the water was calm & flat.  There was a steady stream of cargo ships and tow boats pulling barges coming and going.  We saw few sail boats or other small boats on that part of the waterway.  By early afternoon the wind had kicked up and the tide turned.  The waves were soon crashing around us and our speed had dropped to 4 knots.  It was time to find a spot for the night. 

After another 10 miles we wound our way out of the shipping channel and thru the shallows behind Ship John Shoals.   The wind was blowing hard and the shallow water was churning around us as we looked for a spot to anchor.  All of a sudden we were surrounded by crab pots, the one place you do not want your boat to be is in the middle of a field of crab pots.  If a crab pot line wraps around your prop you are dead in the water.  We quickly retraced our track out of danger and dropped our anchor in 15ft of water. 

 About 5:30pm the anchor was down, the wind blowing us one direction and the current was pushing us the opposite direction.  Our first couple of hours were very uncomfortable.  The good thing was we were well off the shipping lanes and it was time to make dinner. 

SUNSET SHIP JOHN SHOLES

We waited out the bumpy ride till almost sunset when the wind began to die down.  Our new Rocna anchor was dug in deep in the hard sandy bottom.  After a long day with the water much calmer it was time for a hot shower and a good nights sleep  We will have an early departure in the morning.  It is 30 miles to our anchorage in Cape May, New Jersey.

ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND THE SAILING CAPITOL OF THE USA

JUNE 23, 2016

AFTER THE STORM IN HISTORIC ANNAPOLIS, MARYLAND

After leaving Washington, DC we spent 3 days working our way to Annapolis, Maryland, Sailing Capitol of the USA.  Late on Monday we turned into Annapolis Harbor and picked up a mooring ball in the Annapolis City mooring field.  There is an anchorage just outside the harbor but the holding  there is said to be only fair and it can have quite a roll with all the boat traffic. 

SERIOUS SAILING ON THE WAY BACK TO PORT

Annapolis is a very beautiful historic town and the harbor is packed tight with every kind of sailing vessel you can imagine.  We were soon signed in for a 4 day stay to wait out weather coming across the country.  We settled into boat chores and a day aboard before we went ashore to see the sights.

Annapolis attracts boaters and tourists from all over the world.  Out in the mooring field we talked to a couple from Dallas that live on a large power boat.  They call Annapolis home for this year and maybe more.

Our first day ashore took us on a 4 1/2 mile walk to the grocery store.  We wound our way through neighborhoods and were quite out of breath before we were through.  It seems we are still out of shape.  After that chore was taken care of we walked the downtown area around the harbor.  The Historic District is an amazing maze of wonderful building and streets as narrow as an alley.  The downtown area has been  carefully restored and is a wonderful place to visit.

IT'S PERFECT IN THE CITY MOORING FIELD

The  Annapolis Harbor has everything you would expect in a premier historic seaport.  There are people on the waterfront playing music for the crowds, many museums, art galleries, quaint small shops and gourmet restaurants.  It is here you will find anything nautical you can imagine. I can understand why a cruiser might want to stop and call this home for a season.

On every Wednesday the harbor comes alive with the weekly Annapolis, Maryland Sailboat Races.   There are sometimes as many as 150 sail boats of all kinds racing out of the harbor into the bay.  For 55 years this race has been the highlight of the boating community.  The race begins about 6pm and ends about 8pm.  It attracts racers and observers from all over the coast and beyond.  We had a front row seat sitting aboard It's Perfect on the mooring ball.  The boats raced out mere feet from our cockpit. On their return the boats sailed their way in and around all the boats in the crowded mooring field as they returned to their marinas and slips.  It was so exciting it was crazy.  We cheered them on as they flew past and Rod took pictures from the dinghy.  That evening was worth the stay here in Annapolis.  If you are visiting the East coast you must stop for the races.

SAILING RIGHT OFF THE PORT OF  IT'S PERFECT

AFTER THE RACE

BOATS FLYING AROUND MOORED BOATS

AS THEY SAIL BACK IN AFTER THE RACE

It is Thursday night and we are preparing for departure.  It's Perfect is headed to Cape May, New Jersey about 120 miles from here.  There is a anchorage there with good holding where we will wait for a weather window to move on to Long Island, New York.

IT'S PERFECT IN WASHINGTON, DC

JUNE 17, 2016

FLAT WATER ON THE CHESAPEAKE BAY

After 8 days at anchor in Fishing Bay we have moved on.  The weather is suppose to improve and be fair for a week.  On June 6 we were at the dock early to refuel, dump the tanks and take on water.  We were underway before 9am.  Our first stop after leaving Deltaville was Horseshoe Bend in the St Mary's River.   Our day on the Chesapeake Bay was beautiful.  The sky was bright blue, there was not sign of a breeze, so we motored all day.

STORM BLOWING THROUGH ST MARY'S ANCHORAGE

It was about 5pm when we dropped the anchor off St Mary's College of Maryland in the St Mary's River.  There were not many boats in the anchorage and there was a cool breeze rolling across the water.  Time for dinner and a glass of wine.  The next morning we took the dinghy to shore to see what the college was all about. 

HISTORIC CHURCH IN ST MARY'S

St Mary's is a public college built in 1840 on what was the sight of the town of St Mary's City, the 17th century capitol of Maryland.  Much of the original town has been rebuilt or restored and is filled with the history of it's beginnings.  We walked the grounds of the college and saw some of the historic buildings.   The school has a large sailing club and there were windsurfers keeping us entertained in the harbor.

After two nights we pulled the anchor up and headed back into the Potomac River towards Washington, DC, about 90 miles away.  There was little wind or current helping us along so on we motored.  As the day drew to a close we tried one of the designated anchorages on the chart.  To our dismay it was full of crab traps and the water was very shallow, under 8ft.  We soon turned around and headed further up the Potomac toward Washington.

Our destination was Marine Corps Base Quantico, VA about 30 miles out of Washington.  We arrived as the sun began to set and were careful to anchor well clear of the Restricted Zone.  This is not an anchorage that is designated in the charts, but turned out to be perfect.  We were soon anchored in 15ft of water and dinner was on the stove.  We sat in the cockpit as the sun set watching all the activity at the base.  The 4 presidential helicopters are based there and helicopters were taking off and landing.

ROWING CLUB IN THE WASHINGTON CHANNEL

The next morning it was on to Washington to be tourists extraordinaire.   We arrived mid afternoon to anchor within sight of the Washington Monument in the Washington Channel.  To our surprise we were the only sailboat anchored in the anchorage and it was days before another joined us.  We spent some of our days doing chores on the boat and others walking the streets if the Capitol.  The museums are so plentiful you cannot possibly do them all justice.  Everything is within walking distance and we spent hours enjoying the Smithsonian, the Botanical Gardens, the Museum of Art, the Capitol Building, the White House and the National Mall.

Ralph, Rods brother was here on business and we spent a day with him.  We saw the Lincoln Memorial, the Jefferson Memorial, the World War II Memorial and the Vietnam Memorial.  It's a very emotional thing to stand in the Vietnam Memorial seeing all the names, hard to explain the sadness.

VIETNAM MEMORIAL

After a full day of sightseeing with Ralph we all settled in at The Shiner, a small dinner on the water overlooking It's Perfect in the anchorage. As we returned to the boat Marine I flew up the Washington Channel right over It's Perfect, heading toward the White House.  It was the end of a good day with family.

SUNSET IN THE WASHINGTON CHANNEL

After a week in this great city it is again time for us to get underway.  Tomorrow we will leave the anchorage here in the Washington Channel and return to anchor for one night off Quantico Marine Corps, VA.  Then on to the Chesapeake Bay to turn north once again.

ANCHORED IN FISHING BAY, VIRGINIA.

JUNE 2, 2016

IT'S PERFECT IN THE DISMAL SWAMP LOCK

LEAVING ELIZABETH CITY

From our anchorage in the South River we headed to Belhaven for one night.  Then a long day into Elizabeth City for the night.  The Dismal Swamp was next.
 

In the Dismal Swamp everything is lush and  green, it was hot and humid with no trace of a  breeze.  We saw eagles, fish, snakes, turtles, butterfly's, dragonfly's and insects of all kinds.   The winding channel thru the swamp is shallow, mostly 6 to 7ft.  It is exhausting trying to stay in the center for deep enough water.  We were happy to see the lock in the late afternoon.

IT'S PERFECT ON THE FREE DOCK

It was 5:30pm when the lock opened, it had been a long, hot day.  It is just about 10 miles into Norfolk, Virginia where we usually anchor in what is called the Hospital Anchorage.  But it was getting late and all we wanted to do was stop for the night.   There is a free dock just before the bridge into Norfolk which seems to get few visitors.  The dock is about 300ft long with  no power or water.  We decided we would try it out.  It was after 6pm when we tied up on the floating dock.  Many boats passed the dock, no one stopped.  It was their loss,  It's Perfect spent two quiet nights before moving on.

COMPANY ON THE CHESSAPEAK BAY

We left for Fishing Bay and Deltaville early the second morning.  We passed thru the bridge into Norfolk at the 7am opening and we were on our way.  It wasn't long before we turned into the Chesapeake Bay.  It was a beautiful day for a sail and we made almost 7 knots most of the way.  In the late afternoon Stove Neck Point came into view.  We turned into the channel that wound thru the shallows into Fishing Bay. 

After a week underway we were happy to see this beautiful bay we know so well.  We were the only boat in the bay and were soon anchored in about 20ft of water.  Time to break out the wine and have a glass in the cockpit.  It took a few days for us to relax and get boat chores done before we decided it was time to head for shore.  Deltaville Boat Works is where we hauled It's Perfect out of the water and raised the waterline 4yrs ago.

HOLIDAY RAFT UP IN FISHING BAY

John Farinholt and his brother that own the boat yard have bought  Fishing Bay Marina next door.  So now there are even better facilities at our disposal for the small fee charged to dock the dinghy.  There is the shower buildings, the captains lounge, the laundry, a beautiful swimming pool and covered patio all included.  We have been here for almost a week and it's time to make plans to move on north.