SAILING TO EAGLE ISLAND

AUGUST 6, 2016

EAGLE ISLAND MAINE

My sister Judy Emerson from Arizona is with us escaping the desert heat.  Daytime temperatures here in Maine are around 80 degrees now and the nights cool into the low 60's.  We could get use to summer's like this.  The sun was shining and there was a light breeze as we left Broad Cove early one morning.  We put up the sails, the temperature was in the low 70's.  We sailed out of the cove and into the waters of Casco Bay.  We are headed for Eagle Island off Harpswell Neck.  As we rounded Cousins Islands the water became a field of lobster trap buoy's.   Rod is getting very good at taking It's Perfect through row after row of traps, leaving them on both sides.

It's Perfect threaded its way through the small islands for about 2 hours before we saw the rocky shores of Eagle Island.  This island was once owned by Admiral Robert Peary the first to lead explorers to the North Pole.  He lived for years in the house at the top of the rocky island.  The Peary family eventually gave the island to Maine in trust for all Americans.  The Friends of the Peary's Eagle Island continue to maintain it and welcome visitors daily.  In the guide book it says there are mooring balls and room to anchor at the base of the island.  As we approached it didn't look promising.   All of the 8 mooring balls were already taken and the depth of the water in the area was 63ft.  While we were pondering what to do a Maine State Parks boat approached to see if he could be of assistance.  As it turns out the mooring balls were not put in for large, heavy boats and the bottom was mostly rock.  If we wanted to try one of the balls we could be put on the waiting list.  We were disappointed but waiting for a too small mooring ball was out of the question.

We turned away from the Eagle Island and as we passed Haskell Island we could see the large bay of Potts Harbor, Maine.  This harbor has one small marina and its shore is used by lobster boats off loading their catch.  Like most other harbors here there are mooring balls used by local boats.  We made our way in until we found 20ft depth and dropped our anchor in deep mud.  There is about a 10 to 12ft tide, it was almost low tide.  The flat shoreline is mostly rock with few trees.  The residential area must be farther in.   As the sun set Rod grilled up hamburgers and made margarita's.  We were the only anchored boat in the anchorage.

SUNSET IN POTTS HARBOR

SHORES OF MAQUOIT BAY

The next morning we headed  for the very large anchorage in Maquoit Bay, between the mainland and Merepoint Neck.  On the short 5 mile trip we saw our first dolphin surfacing in the open water.  We have not seen many on the entire trip up from New York.  The shores around this bay are beautiful.  The wooded land grows up from rocky shores and has beautiful homes hidden between the trees.   There are almost no lobster buoys to be seen.  We dropped the anchor again in about 20ft of water.  As we settled in we could see seals surfacing to take a look at us.   They look almost like dogs as they swim across before rolling back underwater.

The seals turned out to be very entertaining.  Late in the afternoon they herd fish around in a circle until the water is boiling. They then easily eat their fill.  Most stayed well clear of the boat but late in the day a baby seal swam over and took a closer look.  He was very small with huge eyes and small white spots in his fur.  It was the first baby we have seen in the wild.  We took a break from seal watching to make dinner and pour a glass of wine. 

We stayed two nights in Maquoit Bay, once again the only boat at anchor.  Lobster boats came in about dark and put out their nets catching their bait for the next day.  The second morning we pulled up the anchor and headed back to Broad Cove.  Internet service has been spotty in the anchorages and places to get water not easily reached.  There is a city dock and police station just off Broad Cove where we can fill with water any time.  We will return to Maquoit Bay another day.

SUNSET IN MAQUOIT BAY, MAINE

WHERE ARE THE LIVEABOARD CRUISERS IN MAINE

JULY 23, 2016

PORTLAND THE LARGEST CITY IN MAINE

 We left early from Portsmouth and went back out into the Gulf of Main. It was a beautiful day for the last part of our journey. By late afternoon we could see Portland and turned into the anchorage just across the river from the city.  Of course we chose to anchor right in the middle of all the action. We had ferries coming and going very close to It's Perfect, pleasure boats of every size, a few small sail boats and kayaks galore. As the sun set the traffic slowed and we called it a day.

Bright and early the next morning we were underway. It was about 20 miles to our anchorage in Broad Cove just off the town of Falmouth Foreside. The anchorage is beautiful, the shore is lined with trees and a few scattered homes. On the water there are a few permanent mooring balls owned by the locals.  It is so very quiet all you can hear is the lap of the water on the boat and the wind generator whirling . We have settled in, I'm not sure it could get better than this. 

To go ashore we must take the dinghy around the point to the City Dock and walk into Wild Wood Park, a small suburb of Falmouth Foreside. Just up the hill at the Village Market you can find fresh bread, home grown strawberries, eggs, milk and wine. They also have a deli and are suppose to make the best sandwiches around.

BROAD COVE

Broad Cove is exactly the kind of anchorage we like. We are the only boat anchored in the cove.  A local paddled by and said he had never seen anyone anchor here.  It seems that there are almost no transient boats here.  The days run one into the next, life is good aboard It's Perfect.

Around the corner is a marina with a large mooring field, we have seen few boats anchored anywhere. We stopped in to inquire about paying a service charge to park our dinghy, use the laundry and get water. The answer was not unless you are on a mooring ball. This is what we have found everywhere north of Norfolk, NJ. The north east marinas are friendly enough but there are very few liveaboard cruisers in the waters.

PART OF THE HANDYBOAT MOORING FIELD

IT'S PERFECT ON THE BALL

On wednesday we took It's Perfect around to Handy Boat Marina and picked up one of their many mooring balls. They have very nice facilities to use when you pay $30 a night to be on the ball. Patty Perkins Melander

is the daughter of a longtime neighbor in Mckinney and she lives here in Bowdoinhan, Maine. We arranged to have dinner with her, it will be great to catch up with the news. 

We called on Uber once again, it's time to go into town for a load of provisions. It was a short trip and then back to the boat to put it all away. Late on the second day on a mooring ball our company arrived.  Tomorrow we will sail into Casco Bay to spend a few days.

SAILING WITH WHALES

JULY 22, 2016

After our dramatic entry into the Cape Cod Canal our departure was much more to our liking.  We left Onset Bay with the tide, it was a bright sunny morning.  The canal was calm and running at 5 knots out into the bay.  By 9:30 we were sailing across the Cape Cod Bay and into the Massachusetts Bay headed to Boston. 

LONG SLEEVES FOR COOL WEATHER

By 6pm we were turning into Boston Harbor and made our way around into Hull Bay, Massachusetts .  This is a large bay with plenty of room to anchor.  There were many smaller sailboats on mooring balls dotted around the shore, but not one other cruising boat in sight.  We soon found a place to anchor in 15ft of water at low tide.  Before we had time to make dinner more than a dozen small sailboats left their moorings heading out into the bay for a race.  It seems anywhere there are a number of small sailboats, just before sundown its time for a race.  They raced for about an hour and all headed back in the their mooring balls as the sun set.

FAST FERRY INTO BOSTON

LOBSTER TRAP BOUY

The next morning at 6:30am we left Boston Harbor under full sail.  It was going to be a long day to our anchorage in Kittery Point, Maine.  The winds were light and lobster traps filled the dark blue water in large grids everywhere there was water under 100ft.  These traps are much different from the crab traps we have dodged all across the south and up the east coast.  For one thing the markers are much bigger so you can see them from farther off, they are also laid out into what seem to be fields with the rows spaced farther apart.  Making your way thru these areas is much easier than going thru the poorly marked, closely spaced crab traps of the south. 

By afternoon we were in very deep water with few boats in sight.   This part of the New England Coast is home to more than 5 types of migrating whales.  From April to October you may find Humpback, Mink, Finback and the North Atlantic Right Whale.The wind had died down and the water looked like glass. Out of nowhere a very loud and large vessel appeared.  A WHALE WATCHING BOAT out of  New Hampshire came racing across the water.  As it got near you could see people shoulder to shoulder all around the railings.  We watched as they raced past about 1 1/2 miles off our port side and suddenly stopped.  They must have seen something.  We had been on the water all day and not seen a dolphin, flying fish or jumping fish for that matter.  So to see what all the hub bub was about we dropped our sail and turned toward the boat.

Just about the time we were about 1/2 mile off the ship we saw whales.  One blew just off the bow of the boat while another rolled up and back into the water.  Boats are suppose to stay 500 yards away from any whale but this boat was much closer.  Soon after the whale rolled back into the water the boat put it in gear and turned a tight circle racing back the way it had come.   It wasn't long before it again came to a dead stop.  Within minuets another whale surfaced and blew twice in front of the boat.  When it sank beneath the water the boat once again cranked up the powerful engine, made a tight turn racing across the water into the distance.  When the first whales blew we cut the power on It's Perfect and sat back and watched.  This was the first time we had seen a whale tour boat first hand.  From my perspective it looked almost like harassment.  The engines on the boats were so loud and they got so close the whales it seemed they cared little for the whales safety.  

After all the excitement we sailed on and were just a few miles from our turn into Portsmouth.  All was quiet and Rod very calmly said "Linda a whale rolled up about 100 yards off the port side."  Sure enough just as I looked up I saw him going under again as his small dorsal fin sank beneath the water.  We once again stopped the boat and waited.  After a few min we had decided he was not going to surface again.  Getting underway I heard something off the back of the boat.  The whale had gone under the boat and come up behind us and blew, then he once again disappeared below the water.  No pictures of course but we count ourselves fortunate to have been able to see a whale so very close to It's Perfect.

MOORING FIELD OFF

KITTERY POINT

FOLLOWED INTO THE INLET

BY A BULK CARGO CARRIER

By late afternoon we turned into the Portsmouth Harbor and anchored just off a mooring field in Kittery Point, Maine for the night.  It had been a long day.  In the morning we will go back out into the Gulf of Maine.   It is about 45 miles to the inlet into Portland.  We have company coming and plan on spending about 4 weeks in the islands of the Casco Bay.

DRAMA ON THE CAPE COD CANAL

JULY 20, 2016

YOU JUST CAN'T MAKE THIS SHIT UP!

AND THE FOG ROLLS IN

We left Orient Harbor and headed to Clarks Cove, off New Bedford, Massachusetts.  After one night we were ready to make the short trip to the Cape Cod Canal.  As the anchor was coming up a fog bank rolled in, down went the anchor again and we stayed put until the next day.  This was our first encounter with fog in the northeast and fortunately it didn't stay for long.  The next morning we were on our way, 18 miles to the Cape Cod Canal. 

ENTERING THE CAPE COD CANAL

The Cape Cod Canal Transiting Regulations are enforced.  It is known for its strong currents of up to 5 knots, timing is everything. We approached the narrow channel a little early, it was not quite slack tide.  The winds that had been light all day cranked up 25 to 30 knots, of course blowing against the current coming out of the channel, the water turned into a washing machine effect.  Waves were crashing all around us and strong current right on our nose. As Rod struggled to maintain control at the helm a huge tug was coming out of the canal towards us.  If that wasn't enough a sailboat came from behind us to pass in the narrow channel between It's Perfect and the tug.

COMPANY ON THE CAPE COD CANAL

All we could do was move over as far as possible and continue to try to stay on course.  The tug moved over and the other sailboat approached our port side to pass between us.  Pictures and words could never do this situation justice.  It was one of the most stressful times for us on the water.  Just as the two boats passed Rod checked the engine gauges and the engine was overheating.  What to do next????????  Rod turned out of the channel into 14ft of water and dropped the Rocna and all our 250ft of chain.  Immediately waves were crashing over the bow of It's Perfect and water was rushing over the decks.  The anchor was holding solid.

It was soon determined the seawater pump had lost it's prime again and Rod soon had it primed.  The engine cooled off, we pulled up the anchor and headed back into the channel.  Soon we passed the channel marker and were heading in again, but not for long.  The engine again overheated. This time Rod immediately pulled out of the channel and I took the wheel trying to keep the bow into the wind.  As he began to drop the anchor the anchor chain would not come out of the locker.  With Rod on the bow, the boat slamming up and down and water pouring over the sides he tried everything.  He soon decided the only thing to do was drop our secondary anchor.  Our 45lb Danforth anchor is lashed to the bow at all times and has 200 ft. of nylon rode and 30ft of chain.   It was a process to release the anchor but it finally went into the water.  Now will it hold?  It did and with the water churning around us Rod decided we would ride this out at anchor until the wind died down and the water calmed.  While It's Perfect took all the crashing water and rolling with the current in stride, Sea Tow came out to make sure everything was alright and we were not taking on water.  Nice to know someone was watching.  After more than an hour everything slowly began to calm. The sea water pump was primed and the engine cooled.  Time to finish our journey into Onset Bay.  Passages like this test the boat and the crew to the very edge of what you think possible. Then you finally pull yourself and the boat together and go back out there to sail another day.

ONSET BAY, MASSACHUSETTS

The last few miles were much more calm and we were soon in Onset Bay Marina on a mooring ball.  Time for a glass of wine and a beautiful sunset.  We stayed two nights on the ball and had a list, of course.  Rod first addressed the Rocna chain.  He shackled the main halyard to the chain and used the winch on the mast to pull the chain out of the anchor locker.  It was so rough when we pulled up the Rocna the chain rolled into a ball as it went into the locker, it was a huge chore to get it unrolled and finally back into the locker.  While Rod was busy, I began putting below decks back in order.  We secure everything below decks but obviously not well enough for the pounding It's Perfect took.  By the time Rod finished with the anchor chain I had below decks more presentable.

Rod researched the seawater pump problem.  This pump is suppose to be self priming, but it was not.  Rod had installed a new Johnson impeller, right size but a different brand from the original in the pump in Green Cove Springs before putting It's Perfect in the water.  At the time he had to prime the pump for it to work, he didn't think much about it.  After reading more, he took the old Jabsco impeller he had removed and reinstalled it in the pump.  It self primed first time.  The moral of the story, if you have a Jabsco pump, put a Jabsco impeller in it.  We now have 2 new Jabsco impellers on their way to It's Perfect. 

After our second night on the ball we left the mooring field and turned back into the Cape Cod Canal to finish our transit heading for Boston, Massachusetts.   It was slack tide and the winds were calm, the remainder of the trip down the canal was uneventful.  After an hour and 15 min we were out into the Cape Cod Bay turning north for Boston.  It was a beautiful day.

PORT JEFFERSON, LONG ISLAND

JULY 12, 2016

We left beautiful Manhasset Bay behind and sailed about 35 miles to Port Jefferson.  As we drew near the entrance to the bay here came a huge tug pulling a barge and a commercial car ferry.  Time to take the sails down and get in line.  We passed thru the jetty behind the tug which was behind the ferry.  The Port Jefferson Bay is a very busy place.  Once we were thru the jetty we took a short look around. 

On either side of the bay are steep green hills filled with wonderful neighborhoods.  The back of the bay is filled with work docks, ferry docks, marina's and mooring balls all just blocks from town.  The streets are full of cars and sidewalks full of tourists.  We turned back toward the entrance to find most of the designated anchor spots full of private moorings.  We found a spot not far off the channel in about 20ft of mud well outside the mooring balls and dropped the anchor.  Perfect, we love anchoring on the edge.

We were soon settled in to watch all the activity in this busy harbor.  The Bridgeport & Port Jefferson Steamboat Co. runs the ferry across Long Island Sound many times a day and there are all kinds of boats coming in and out everywhere you look.  Every once in a while you hear the ferry horn blast and look up to see a small sail boat in front of a ferry trying to get out of the way. 

We have friends here that we met in Grenada.  Mike and June arrived aboard Idunno after we arrived.  In Mt Hartman Bay we got to know them as we all came and went to the cruiser activities.  We have kept in touch thru Facebook and are looking forward to getting together to share what is new in our boating lives.

DOCKED AT THE HOTEL DANFORDS

On Wednesday we took the dinghy into the dock to see what was available.  The only place we found to dock the dinghy was the very nice Danfords Hotel and Marina where they are were very helpful.  For $10 a day we can dock the dinghy, use their trash facilities and get water.  Not bad considering that they charge a dollar a ft per night for a mooring ball.   $44 a night for It's Perfect, we have paid less than than for dock and electricity.  While in town we walked the streets and were soon near Mike and June's home.  They live about a mile from the docks in a historic home that was once owned by June's grandmother.  We gave them a call and were soon sitting in the shade sharing news.   

DANFORDS HOTEL AND MARINA

ON THE WATERFRONT

June asked us to come for dinner the next day and was kind enough to give us a lift to the local Wal Mart about 5 miles away.  Walmart stores on the east coast are much smaller than any we have seen in the mid west but with a little patience we were able to get most of what we needed except fresh produce and meat.

The next day we refueled and checked It's Perfect for a departure on Friday the 15th.  About 3pm we were on our way to Mike and June's to meet fellow boaters Bill and Joan who own Mariah a 38ft sailboat.  Over a glass or two of wine we exchanged cruising experiences, talked about boats, weather, foreign countries and cruising news.  To the average person it might have been a little boring but you could hardly get a word in edgewise.  After a wonderful dinner it was time to say goodbye and head back to It's Perfect.  We are departing on Friday to round the end of Long Island and anchor one night in Orient Harbor on our way to the Cape Cod Canal.
 

PORT WASHINGTON, NEW YORK

JULY 10, 2016

We have been anchored in Manhasset Bay off Port Washington for 7 days.  After our trip through Hell Gate arriving here was a great relief.  The bay is quite large with many places to anchor.  The tree lined shores have beautiful homes and mansions perched overlooking the water.  The bay is dotted with boats, mostly on mooring balls outside small marinas. It makes quite a stunning view.

MANHASSET BAY SUNSET

Salvatores-Coal-Oven-Pizza

After a couple of days getting our bearings we made a trip into Port Washington to do laundry.  We are anchored on the far side of the bay so it is quite a long ride to the dinghy dock.  Once we reached the dock the grocery was right across the street and the West Marine, laundry and hardware store were just blocks away.  Our errands were soon underway and the laundry running.  When we finished our chores we ducked into Salvatories for a real handmade New York Pizza.  Hmmmmm this might be the best pizza we have ever had.  By late afternoon the dinghy was loaded with fresh laundry, a few groceries, misc. boat parts and pieces and of course a new box of wine.

NEW YORK SUBWAY DOWNTOWN

LONG ISLAND RAILROAD TO PENN STATION

Back on It's Perfect the beds made with clean sheets, laundry put away and wine in hand it was time to make a plan.  We have decided to take this opportunity to go into New York City and we couldn't be in a better place to make the trip.  We have been to New York 3 times in the past and loved every trip.  On Friday we moved the boat to a free mooring ball close to the town dock.  We rose early Sat morning, took the water taxi to the dock and walked about mile into Port Jefferson to catch the 9:11 train into Penn Station.  From there we took the subway to the Natural History Museum and walked across Central Part to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  We waited until Saturday to have clear weather in the city and so did every other tourist in town.  The subway's were crowded and the museums had long lines.  But this is New York, what would one expect. 

HERSHEY'S CHOCOLATE WORLD

OUR VIEW OF BROADWAY

We meandered our way through the streets of New York riding the subway uptown and downtown.  There was a visible show of armed police and soldiers
in most of the stations and on the streets.  It is sad that in America we find it necessary.  We stopped for lunch just off Times Square at the Olive Garden where we had a great view of  Broadway from the second floor dining room.

METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

BEAUTIFUL HOMES BETWEEN

THE SKY SCRAPERS

By late afternoon we had enough of all the crowds.  Time to take the subway back to Penn Station and home to It's Perfect.  It sometimes pays to get old, our train tickets in and out of the city cost $5.75 per person and the fees for the museums were almost half.  The ride back to Port Washington took about 40 min and we were soon back at the dock and on our way to It's Perfect.  Once in the cockpit we had much to talk about, it was a wonderful day in the city.

WALKING CENTRAL PARK

It is time to be moving on, we have family coming to visit in Portland, Maine.  Our next stop is in Port Jefferson where we will catch up with friends we made in Grenada. Mike and June Kelly lived aboard Idunno in Mt Hartman Bay, while we were there.  Facebook is a great way to keep in touch, we have watched each others progress since we have been back in the USA.  They now live in Port Jefferson and are expecting our visit.  They have generously offered to receive forwarded mail, give us the use of their laundry and taxi us to and from the grocery.  Over dinner we will take the opportunity catch up with all the sailing news.

It will be a short hop of about 35 miles to the Port Jefferson Harbor and then on to the Cape Cod Canal.  Our time is short before we must turn around for this year and head south for the winter.